![]() ![]() I achieve the same efficiency with batch sparging as I did with continuous sparging. My procedure is fairly simple and sparging is complete in about 20 minutes. Because of size limitations with the Rubbermaid I do 2 additional drainings of about 10 litres each. Our original sparge volume needed was about 25 litres so we subtract the first top up of 5 litres which leaves us 20 litres of water to extract the sugars in the grains. So from the above figures we get a first drain off the lauter tun of about 10.7 litres. If you do, that mash out water is your top up value. With my system, a Rubbermaid cooler I have room for about 5 extra litres of sparge water immediately at the end of the mash…. 3 litres Grain absorbtion = 5 litres top up = ? Mash water = 11 litres Loss to dead space =. “First drain” = Mash water – Loss to dead space – Grain absorbtion + top up We will be doing three drainings from the Lauter tun. Total sparge water needed is about 30 litres.*** Safety factor for first attempt at batch sparging 5 litres.Final recoverable wort to fermenter 22 litres.The figures below are not 100% accurate but are very close. A bit dramatic but you will see what I mean. The amount doesn’t matter as long as you know what is is approximately.Īt this point you may think I have consumed one too many ales because we now enter a new land of no return. My system is about 300 mls, a very small amount while a bucket in bucket system may be 2 litres. Each system will have a different amount of dead space at the bottom of the lauter tun. The 5 kgs of grain will absorb its own weight in water therefore you will get 6 litres less the sparge vessel dead space as your first “drain”. We will be making a Scottish Ale with 5kgs of grain and 11 litres of mash water. My mash/lauter tun is a rubber maid 19litre cooler with stainless steel bottom. Lets work on a pre-boil volume of 30 litres after sparge in the kettle. You should already know this from experience with your brewing setup. You need to know accurately your pre-boil volume. Or on your beer software set the efficiency to about 72% instead of 75% and the program will tell you the malt bill you need to reach your specific gravity. ![]() With any new method in any field you need to examine what you are going to do so that you understand the reasons why before committing 5Kgs of pale malt and a free afternoon.ĭo allow about 5% more grain the first time you use this method as you may have slightly less efficiency compared to fly sparging. If you ask three brewers to define batch sparging you will probably get three different methods, that’s the beauty of home brewing. The other method and the method I use is batch sparging. The other factor with continuous sparging is the time and attention required for the 60 – 90 minutes. Now, having painted a less than glowing picture of continuous sparging, I have to say many home brewers use this method without any problems at all. High water temperatures and an increase in grain bed pH can spell doom for your beer even before you begin your boil. ![]() Another problem can be a rise in the sparge water temperature with heat applied as the water level drops in your HLT. To continuous sparge a typical mash can take 60 to 90 minutes and during this time you must maintain the temperature of your sparge water in the 75 – 80 Celsius range to remove all converted sugars.Īs a continuous sparge nears the end the pH of the grain bed can rise above the optimum pH of 6 and extract husk chemicals that contribute to astringency and off flavours. It has drawbacks in two areas, time and over sparging. Most home brewers have used the continuous sparge method and it is very widely accepted because it works. A third is no sparge, but that isn’t part of this discussion. Fly or continuous sparging or Batch sparging. See Also: Our Updated Article on Batch Spargingįor the all grain home brewer there are two basic methods available to extract the sugars from the mashed grain. ![]()
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